Thursday, October 27, 2005
Missing home
Actually, my biggest complaint about the residence is the lack of Spanish spoken here. We're all students in the same boat so any type of conversation in Spanish would end in two seconds. So for November, I've decided to move to a homestay, which I know is pretty risky but I figure it'll be just for one month. And if I decide that I really don't like it, I can always just move back into the residence. I'm meeting some potential families this week so at least I'll see the house and meet the people before I move in. Hopefully, it will be an opportunity to immerse myself more in the culture rather than hanging out with a big group of Americans all the time. But I'm a bit worried about moving into someone else's house and feeling a bit like an intruder. I move in on November 2nd so we'll see!
I miss everyone back home! Write comments or emails to let me know what everyone else is up to!
Wednesday, October 26, 2005
Tango and tea
Cafe Tortoni is the oldest traditional cafe in Buenos Aires and historically has been the meeting place of politicians, artists, poets, writers, etc for hot political discussions over a good cafe (yes, I know tea is in the title but it just sounded better with tango). These days its more of a stop on the tourist trail and sure enough, at every table there was either a camera or a guidebook. But the cafe was really cute and obviously had some historical significance so I didn't mind too much. We had some good cafe and a couple of pizzas (they are VERY popular here).
The outside of Cafe Tortoni. Its on Avenida de Mayo, which has a lot of French-like architecture. Also, its right above is the Tango Instititute and MuseumAfterwards, I went to the Plaza de Mayo, the main plaza where there are a lot of famous buildings. Its also the birthplace of Buenos Aires and where the presidential palace is. For those who saw Evita (which I didn't), its where Evita stands on the balcony to address "her people". Anyway, the presidential house is pink, hence the name, Casa Rosada. The paint is mixed with ox blood to get the pink color but when they last painted it, they only had enough for one side so the sides and back of the house are sort of this dull beige color. Pretty weird but the house is huge.
I also saw some interesting grafitti as I was walking. Apparently, stenciled grafitti is very popular here and they are usually used to convey a political message. Bush is supposed to arrive in Argentina at the beginning of November and people here are up in arms. What's interesting about this though is the mickey mouse ears. Argentineans tend to equate Disneyland with capitalism, materialism and all things wrong with America. I thought it was pretty funny.
And then on Monday, I went to this tango show as part of my school's cultural activities. I wasn't sure what to expect since it was supposed to include a tango lesson and listening to tango music, which to me just sounds like the absolute peak of cheesiness. I don't think I would be able to sit through any type of tango dancing without laughing. Anyway, when the curtains went up, this was the band!
They were playing traditional tango instruments (all the guys in the front are playing accordians and the guys in the back are playing violins) and traditional tango music but they were dressed in dirty t-shirts and dreads. Except for the instruments, they could have been any other wanna-be rock band. Anyway, it was fantastic. They were really good and it was awesome to listen to some live music. I bought a CD so you can all hear it when I get back!
The venue was pretty nice also. It was similar to the Bowery Ballroom in terms of size and layout but they had tables and chairs for everyone. It was great to listen to a great band without having to stand or shove the whole time. I would definitely go back there.
Well, I leave you guys with one last thing. I don't know if most of you recognize Kumon but the plague has spread. I didn't take it myself but I know plenty of people who did and I just died when I saw this! For those who may not be familiar wit Kumon, its this awful program for kids to study math as sort of an after-school program. But its all just practice, practice, practice. Can you imagine being 10-years-old and forced to do long division for hours at a time? Yeah well, it sucks. Those poor Argentinean kids!
Saturday, October 22, 2005
Daily grind
So what is a usually day of mine like? Well, I work as a volunteer for this organization that works with families with needy or HIV-infected children. Right now, I work in the mornings and I work with small children between the ages of 2 and 4. They are all so rambunctious and cute and its been quite an experience to work with them. I've worked with high school kids before but this is the first time that I'm working with such young children. Its hard and a ton of work but its so rewarding to see these kids so full of life. But its also so heartbreaking. They have no concept of the circumstances of their lives though many of them are HIV-infected and facing severe poverty and malnutrition, just that they get to play with their friends and with us volunteers! There's one teacher for about 15-20 kids and so they really need volunteers to help monitor the kids. I spend most of my time playing with them and watching over their activities like finger painting or reading lessons. I'm also trying to start some new programs for the kids and help this organization actually move forward rather than just maintaining the current level of care. Its okay for now when the kids are young but we need to invest and help them prepare for the future as well. As soon as I get my camera to work, I'll take some pictures and post them on the blog. Starting next month, I'll also be working with older children, 6 to 12 years old, and I'll be helping with afterschool programs and English classes. They organization also works with adults so hopefully, I will be able to interact with them once my Spanish is a little better.
After my volunteer program, I head to my Spanish classes. I have class everyday from 1pm to 4pm, which seems long but we get a 20-30 minute break in there. Classes are really great and I'm really enjoying learning Spanish but there really isn't that much structure or any type of curriculum to speak of, actually. Luckily, I took Spanish is high school (a long time ago, I know) so at least I have some foundation in Spanish. Actually, its amazing how much of the grammar I still remember. So what I really need to do is practice more and my classes are really good for that. I really like my teachers and the other students in my class so its definitely a good experience. Its hard though to really get quality practice time with 5 other students in the class so next month, I'm switching to private lessons so hopefully I can get better faster. My Spanish is defintely improving (I can speak in full sentences!) but my vocabulary is still very small. Now that my applications are done with, I can really focus on studying Spanish.
I'm also thinking of moving to a homestay next month so I can spend more time speaking Spanish. I really like living in the residence but since I'm living with other students in similar situations, we speak English at home. At a homestay, at least I will be surrounded by a Spanish-speaking family at all times so I will be speaking more everyday. I'm a little apprehensive about homestays because I've heard some pretty horrid stories but I plan on going into it with another student so at least I won't be totally alone. I'll let you all know how that goes.
I'm also trying to meet more Argentineans. Its hard because I feel like a bit of a moron since I can't really speak all that well but everyone I've met has been really nice so far. Actually, last night, I met with a friend, Manuel, and he took me and a couple of friends to this crazy underground warehouse party. It was in this really insane part of town, not even close to what you would see in any tour. The party was in an abandoned warehouse near these abandoned train tracks. As we approached the warehouse, we passed all these broken cars with smashed windows and covered with dust. The party space was also really interesting. It was huge enough to have 2 dance floors with a small skate park in between so if you were tired of dancing, you could hang out on the ramps. Also, you could go outside and sit on the railroad tracks to get some fresh air. They were serving mostly just beer and you could actually buy a full liter of beer at once. It was huge! The cups were the size of my head and I had to use both hands to drink out it. But the strangest part of the party was that it was full of hipsters. Like NY and LA hipsters. It felt like walking around Williamsburg or Silver Lake but in an abandoned warehouse in Buenos Aires. Its interesting to think of American culture influences so far from home but there you have it. I was talking to a bunch of people and they all listen to indie rock and read Paul Aster. Anyway, the party was a pretty amazing experience and we had a great time. Definitely not your ordinary Bs As excursion.
And today, I went shopping. I went to Palermo Soho (a la the neighborhood in NY) where all the trendy boutiques are. It was fun to go into all the different shops and see what Argentineans buy. Everyone here is definitely into fashion so you always have to look pretty hip to be taken seriously anywhere (the worst dressed are always the tourists). The best part of shopping here is the exchange rate! I feel bad about exploiting the economic situation in Argentina but I figure at least I'm putting my tourist dollars to work. I bought a bunch of clothes and accessories for fraction of what it would cost in the States. After shopping, I sat in a cafe and had a hamburger with a fried egg, panchetta and grilled onions. Yeah, they are definitely not really into vegetables here. It was pretty delicious but in general, the food in Bs As isn't really all that great. The steaks are AMAZING but the rest isn't as exciting.
I just love that I'm done with my applications and that I can finally start enjoying the city! I've made a list of a bunch of things I want to do here and I'm excited to start exploring. Tomorrow, I'm going to other parts of the city and hopefully that'll also be pretty fun. And next week I'm going to go to Iguazu Falls. Its crazy to think I've already been here for 3 weeks so I really need to get moving and doing things! Whew, another long post. I will post more pictures next time, I promise. I'll also start posting more often so they aren't so long but I was pretty busy this week and also our internet at the residence was down for the second part of the week. Until next time!
Saturday, October 15, 2005
Galerias de arte
Well, finally I find myself with an hour to spare. No application stuff hanging over my head, no roommates around to interrupt me and no websites left to surf. No, in all seriousness, I haven't had much to report. I plan on actually doing interesting things and getting to know the city but I need to finish my applications first. The good news is that I have 2 down already so I'm a lot less stressed. The bad news is that my final one (due Wed) is for my top choice school so its important to stay focused and keep my ideas fresh. I'm pretty happy with my essays and now I'm just waiting for people to get back to me with comments and thoughts. But this blog isn't about my applications!
To the good stuff. Like I said before, I haven't done too much. A couple of weekends ago I went to Recoleta to see the feria (outdoor market) there. Ferias are pretty big in Bs As (the acronym for
But the best part was going to the Recoleta cemetery. Its filled with these crazy huge mausoleums so it feels like a mini-city as you're walking around. Some of the structures are huge and ornate but most of them are old and crumbly now (Evita's tomb is there but I couldn't find it). It was just a bit spooky to be in this city of death but it seemed so tranquil at the same time. My favorite place by far.
Peaceful, creepy cemeteryFinally, this weekend, I was ready to start having fun! I still had a lingering cough so I wasn’t really up for any heavy drinking. On Friday night, we threw a party at the residence. I invited a couple of people from my classes and these Argentinean people that I randomly know. We all got pretty dressed up for the party, which was really nice. Since the party was just at home, there really weren’t any worries about heels or purses so we just went all out. I wore a white top and this white skirt with faint green flowers that I bought here (USD $8!), which probably wasn’t very smart considering all the red wine that was at the party but it worked out. Lots of people got trashed, wine was spilt everywhere but I think everyone had a good time.
I spent a lot of time talking with random Argentineans and I got to practice a lot of my Spanish but towards the end, I was a little desperate for some English speaking people, especially after a couple of drinks. Spanish is hard! It takes so much concentration to figure out what their saying and then its even worse when they want me to respond! I’m starting to feel more comfortable with speaking though. My conjugation is spotty and my vocabulary is tiny but at least I’m putting myself out there!
A lot of people went to this club after the party but it was 4am and I was pretty exhausted. Seriously, people go out really really late here! I haven’t stayed out like this since I was 18 and that was unfortunately quite a few years ago. In any case, I wanted to meet Majo and
This morning, we went to a couple of galleries, one in San Telmo and the other in La Boca. Majo is an art history grad student and
I also got to see some of the various neighborhoods around Bs As. San Telmo is really cool with tons of antique shops, crumbling mansions with 19th century French architecture, cobble stone streets and trendy clothes shops. In the late 19th century, it was the neighborhood of the filthy rich but they fled to Recoleta during a yellow fever/cholera epidemic. I can’t wait to come back during a Sunday and seeing the antique feria that’s there. There’s also this pretty pedestrian street with a bunch of cafes overlooking it so the next Sunday I have free I’m just going to sit with a cafĂ© con leche and people watch.
The other gallery was in La Boca, a very poor neighborhood next to the part of the river where a lot of industrial waste used to be dumped. It stinks and it’s dangerous but it turned into this bizarre tourist trap. They painted a bunch of the building bright rainbow colors and opened a whole bunch of kitch-y souvenir shops and restaurants with waiters in ridiculous costumes. And now they have these huge tourist buses that come and dump tons of tourists here. It doesn’t make any sense. Well, at least I saw it once so I won’t have to come back.
Some kids playing futbol (La Boca is also the home of one the most popular teams, the Boca Juniors)
Anyway, that’s probably enough to get everyone up to speed! Sorry about not keeping up a bit but with my applications, these last couple of weeks have been a MAD HOUSE. But after Wednesday, its on!
Pictures!
La residencia! Beautiful building. We're on the top floor and we have the roof also. Its at the corner of Ravingnani y Paraguay.
The view from the balcony of my building. Our neighborhood has beautiful tree-lined and cobble-stoned streets. And huge buses that spew tons of pollution.
The living room! I spend the majority of my time here because this is the only place with wireless. This is just one half. The other half is pretty much the mirror image so its really big and comfy.
My teensy room. It pretty much just has room for a bed, a desk and a dresser (not shown). Without the desk and dresser, there's about 4 feet around the bed. There's a window but it just looks out onto the patio so not much light either. At least its all mine!Friday, September 30, 2005
The eagle has landed
Well, I made it! I'm now in
And now I'm in the residence (that's what they call dorms) and I have this itty bitty room and kind of this crappy bathroom with a toilet that I couldn't figure out how to flush for the longest time (the peg I was hanging my towel on turned out to be the flushing button) but at least its all mine. Though the other rooms are pretty big but I don't think I would be able live with a roommate. And everyone here is much younger than I am (avg age is probably around 20), which makes me feel pretty old and even more glad that I have my own room. But everyone here is really nice and they all made me feel welcome so I'm pretty happy in the residence. It’s nice to come in and immediately be taken in by a group of friends and not worry about not knowing anyone. Everyone here has been here for at least a month longer so it’s really nice to take advantage of what they know so far about the city and where to go. I flew in a red-eye and pretty bleary-eyed but a bunch of the girls were going shopping so I went along and we had a great time.
Our residence is in Palermo Viejo (Palermo Hollywood to be exact), which is kind of a trendy area with cute shops, great restaurants and hip bars. It reminds me so much of
But its not all fun and games. My electrical converter thing doesn't work and the voltage here is too high for my lower voltage appliances like my hair dryer or my rechargable batteries. Well, I'm supposed to be roughing it in any case. And also, last night, we went out to this hip hop club, which was pretty fun at first until I got my wallet stolen! Luckily, I only had a little money and one credit card in it so right when I found out, I left to cancel it and now everything is fine. I have extra credit cards with me and more money in my room so at least I didn't lose much. I was pretty bummed because I wasn't being careful enough but at least now I'm more on guard and hopefully nothing else like that will happen. But it was my first night here, for god's sake. At least today was pretty unadventurous. I pretty much just stayed in to work on my apps and recover from my 18-hour trip here.
I'm getting excited about all the things to do here! Except for the wallet theft, everything has been pretty good. This morning I had a cafe con leche and a medialuna (basically, a croissant with less butter) at a cafe at the corner of my block. So Argentinean! I love it. And for dinner, I went out to this steak place with a couple of my dorm-mates and had some amazing steak. It was also the biggest slab of beef I've ever seen for a single person and it was only $6! With a bottle of wine and a bunch of side dishes, it came out to about $11. And that was at a pretty fancy place where the waiters were all in bowties.
Since my camera is without batteries right now, you'll have to wait for pictures but I promise to get them up soon so you can see what my dorm room looks like (besides a shoebox).
Monday, August 22, 2005
Preparation neurosis
So far, I haven't done that much. I got my vaccinations, added extra visa pages to my passport and got my malaria meds. My doctor and I decided that I should take Malarone since I'll be going in and out of malaria zones often and since it'll work against all the various malaria strains, I only have to take that one type of pill. Its a daily pill, which adds a bit more of an annoyance, but its supposed to have less side effects than the others. I'll be glad for them when I'm not getting strange vivid dreams or crippling nausea. For my vaccinations, I got vaccinated for yellow fever, Hep A and typhoid. Getting shots after all these years made me a bit queasy. I don't care what they say, they still hurt! I thought I got Hep B when I was younger but my mother confirmed that I actually did not so I'm going to the local travel clinic to get Hep B. Hopefully, the travel clinic will have more information about health issues. I have a pretty decent first aid kit (courtesy of REI, my now favorite store in the world) and my doctor gave me a prescription for some Cipro if I ever need it. There are some international organizations of doctors or medical professionals that I can join for a small fee, which may be worth it but I have to research it a bit more.
I also still have to get travel insurance. This is a bit harder since I've never bought insurance on my own. Its hard to tell which companies are the most reputable and what type of coverage I need. Since I'm taking a few expensive electronic items (camera, ipod), I think I want one that will cover my belongings. Also, should I get coverage for lost luggage and trip interruption? Or is med evacuation enough?
I also need to start thinking about plane tickets and my RTW ticket (actually, this is what prompted me to procrastinate on my apps and start this blog). Because I traveled so much when I was working, I've amassed a ridiculous number of miles, which will finally pay off! I'm going to use my miles for each of my South American trips, which will save me a ton. Also, since I'm traveling down to
I will have to eventually book a RTW ticket for Asia and
I've also been on a bit of a gear-frenzy. I need to buy a bunch of security stuff like locks and this weird wire mesh net-thing for my backpack that I can lock up so I don't have to worry about my backpack while on buses, trains or in the hostels. Its a bit hefty (2lbs!) but since I'm on my own, I want to feel secure about my belongings. Especially, since I bought a new digital camera a couple of months ago and a new 20GB color iPod. I got a Canon S2 IS and its fantastic. Great photos, easy to use and best of all, it takes AA batteries (not many outlets in the great outdoors). And of course, I had to get a color iPod so that I can store all those great pictures. Best of all, it was my birthday a few days ago so I was really able to cash in on some gear including ugly yet practical mosquito pants that's supposed to repel bugs. Especially good for malaria zones since I'll be visiting quite a few.
Well, that's probably enough for one post :). I know, I get obsessed with this stuff. Okay, back to applications. This whole year will be for naught if I can't even finish my applications!
Saturday, August 20, 2005
Facing the gauntlet
So I have 6 weeks left before I head to
So how did I get here? Last I’m sure you heard, I was working like a dog in my big-time banking job, making dough and eating power lunches on Wall Street. I've worked so hard my entire life to get to this point and now I’m just going to walk away?? Yeah, basically. After two years in NY, I started to follow what everyone else in my position does and interviewed to get the next step, even bigger-time finance job. After getting rejected from my top-choice firm, I wanted to cry. I've basically gotten every job I wanted my entire life so it was eye-opening to not get something for once. And then I started to think. Why was I pushing myself so hard to get this job where I would be working for even bigger jerks, for longer hours and on things I was already bored out of my mind with? I was so driven to succeed, I never actually stopped to consider if I actually wanted it all. So I decided to move to LA and work for one more year while I figured out what I actually wanted to do. I always wanted to travel, especially since I never had the chance in college, and break free from the confines of my own life. It took me a WHOLE YEAR to convince myself that I could take time off to do basically nothing, without responsibility, a job or even a home, but I finally decided to do it! I knew I wanted to go to business school so I knew this would probably the last time I could do something like this sooooooooo here I am!
You can't even imagine how excited I am about this trip. I've lived my life pretty much by the book, limited by the boundaries that I put on myself. I'm obsessed with making plans and to-do lists - its hard for me to take on anything unless I have a step-by-step plan laid out. So this year will be good for me. I'm not doing too much planning (by my standards at least) and I'm taking off basically with a plane ticket, passport and guide book in hand. I know what countries I want to visit and when I'll be there but what I do while I'm there is completely up to me. I have some ideas from friends, other travel blogs and guide books but I'm going to let the moment take me wherever I go. I really hope that this year will be fun, exciting and most importantly, a challenging and meaningful experience in my life.
So, I’m taking an entire year off. I also wanted to spend some time doing volunteer work, hands-on, working with people and not behind a desk. Actually feel like I can make a difference in someone’s life rather than just making rich companies even richer. Maybe I could actually do something productive with my career and help those in need. Recently, I've really felt the pull towards non-profit and economic development so maybe this year will help me start a new direction in my career as well. I also wanted to work on my language skills and relearn Spanish, which I started in high school. So I decided to move to
Well, enough with the cheese (which you all know I hate with a passion anyway). I just hope you guys enjoy the blog. This way I can keep in touch with everyone so you will know I'm still alive (kidding, Mom!) and hopefully, give you a chance to experience the trip with me.
The Year of Jane
What: A travel blog, of course!
Who: Type-A, former investment banker, neurotic over-analyzer, prada purse carrying world adventurer. I worked my butt off for the last 3 years as an investment banker, 4 years before that at an Ivy League school, and 4 years before that working to have the esteemed honor of attending such institution, not including the most horrifying internship experiences possible. Was it worth it? Well, any answer but yes will make me cry.
Why: This is going to be the Year of Jane. I've decided there's more to life than back of the envelope merger plans and 6am worknights so I'm taking a year off for a modern day Grand Tour. That's right, I packed up my pencils, gave my notice and here I am, facing unemployment for at least 3 years. I'm taking just 30lbs of stuff (shocking, I know), a camera and this blog and hopefully have the time of my life!
When: Is there any better time than the present? I have 6 weeks left but a mountain of business school applications to get through before I leave.
How: Gut wrenching soul-searching, budgets, travel books, web researching, lots of to-do lists. I know this year is supposed to teach me to take more chances and push myself outside of my boundaries but let go of my to-do lists?? I'm becoming a world adventurer, not a crazy person.
Where: Well, now there's the question! For at least until the end of the year I will be in Argentina and Patagonia but I'm still trying to work out the rest. I have a whole YEAR for godssake!!
It'll be lonely traveling on my own so if any of you feel a bit of wanderlust, I would LOVE the company! Also, please leave me comments. I will definitely be missing everyone at home.













