Monday, April 10, 2006

The true greatness of the wall


I was a bit wary about visiting the Great Wall because I heard about how touristy and overrun with people it was, which can ruin what is supposed to be a breathtaking sight. So I asked around and found that if I stayed away from Bahdaling, which has an almost Disneyland like feel, I could escape most of the crowds. A lot of the wall has been/is being restored (ie, rebuilt) but I wanted to see the wall in its au naturel state if possible so when I found out there there was a section of the wall that could be done as a day hike, I was all over it.

The hike between the Jinshaling and Simatai sections of the wall is only 6.5 miles but it took around 4 hours to complete. This section of the wall had some restored parts but also some crumbling bits so we got to see a lot of different aspects of the wall but it also made hiking it a little tough. The wall already winds up and down, in some parts quite steeply, but over some sections, we had to climb over using our hands and knees because of the crumbling stone. Some parts of the wall really seemed to be falling apart but I guess its to be expected with something over 2,000 years old.

The other great part of the hike was the lack of tourists. The hike is actually pretty hard (we're talking Inca Trail steep) and I think most tourists go just for the experience of going. But that didn't mean there is any lack of touts trying to sell you things, even on the wall. Its really annoying because you're trying to have a life-changing experience but it gets ruined by some old little lady trying to sell you a t-shirt. They follow the tourists even up to an hour. Its ridiculous. But after South America, I've perfected how to say no, curtly and with the right amount of rudeness, so it wasn't too bad for us.

The wall extends over all those crests, farther than I could see. Unbelievable.

The wall is connected by all these guard towers along the way.

The wall in its natural state, crumbling away.

One of the touts on the wall selling things from t-shirts to beer.

Peering over the (renovated) wall.

Some parts of the hike were very very steep. Actually, most of the hike was like this.

But nothing could have taken away from how amazing seeing and experiencing the Great Wall was. Since there weren't that many people, a lot of the time it just felt like me and the wall. And it is so impressive. I don't think I can really convey how I felt, standing there and seeing the wall snake over the hills for as far as I could see and also sensing the history that spans thousands of years. One of the most moving experiences I've had traveling so far. Its just amazing what humanity can build and accomplish.

Contemplating the wall. You can't help but stand there and soak it all in.

The next on my list is Xian, the jumping point to see the terracotta warriors. I also have my first overnight journey in China so I'm interested to see how it compares to South America. I'm pretty optimistic since I get a bed in a train (rather than a seat in a bus) and its also cheaper! The beds are in bunks so hopefully they aren't too cramped.

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