Into thin air

My head wouldn't stop pounding, I could barely breath, the bathrooms were nightmare-inducing, snow was constantly blowing in my face but the trip to Everest Base Camp was everything I had hoped it would be. It was just so amazing to be standing in the same spot as the climbers who defied human limitations to climb the highest peak in the world.

We arrived at Rongbuk monastery and you could immediately feel the difference in alititude from the moment we stepped out of the car. We had spent the last few days trying to acclimate, moving from 1300 meters at Kathmandu to 4200 meters at Tingri. We were already pretty battered from the altitude (you try sleeping with your heart racing and head pounding!) so the thought of staying at 5000 meters was pretty tough. Every step was a struggle and I had to stop every few minutes to give my head a rest. I think our group spent something like 5 hours just sitting in the dining room, trying to nurse our headaches. I also decided to stay in the monastery (you could chose to stay at the lodge just 5 minutes away) to have the "true" experience and it was pretty basic. Actually, really basic. It was musty, dirty and a bit moldy but at least it had some beds to sleep on. Not that we actually slept that night.

The lucky winners who got to stay at the monastery. Later in the day, some guys took away the stove, leaving a gaping hole in the ceiling. That definitely came in handy while in snowed at night. It also stank. Actually lots of things on our trip stank. I don't even want to talk about the bathrooms!

But it was definitely an achievement to stay at Rongbuk and I wouldn't have changed a thing. We were staying at 5000 meters (17,000 ft), which is higher than Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the lower 48. I've never stayed at this type of altitude so I'm glad to say I did it though its not very fun. And the views. We had a picture perfect view of Everest from our door steps, shining like a beacon and beckoning us to come. The monks at the monastery were also pretty nice so it added a spiritual feel to Everest.

Our first view of Everest from Tingri, where we stayed the day before arriving at Rongbuk. Can you feel the excitment yet? That's Everest!!

And there she is!! Imposing, impressive and stunning. The view from Rongbuk was perfect.

This woman really wanted her photo taken so I kindly obliged. We sat next to each other for about 15 minutes afterwards, smiling and nodding though we had no idea what the other was saying.

The stupa from the monastery. It definitely felt like being on holy ground.

The next day, we hiked just 8km (around 5 miles) to Everest Base Camp, which is at 5200 meters. Though we only gained 200 meters in altitude, the hike was tough. Every small hill looked like an unsurmountable mountain and every step was a struggle. It also snowed that day (pretty rare) so we couldn't really see anything along the hike or when we got there. But still, it was Base Camp for godssake so we couldn't miss the opportunity. We spent a frigid half hour there before the snow drove us back to Rongbuk. Because of the snow, we decided to take donkey carts back to Rongbuk. It seemed like an easy option at first but it was the most undignified and ridiculous thing I have EVER done. We were bounced all over the place, barely able to hang on while the driver kept looking back at us and laughing. It was also frigid, ice-cold. I couldn't feel anything after about 5 minutes except hail and snow hitting my numb face. The hike was hard but I would chose it over the donkey cart any day! Never again!

This is all we saw from our hike. Clouds and more clouds.

It was actually pretty miserable to hike in the snow. Even these yaks looked frozen!

Hotel California, indeed. There were all these tents at the top, waiting to serve us hot tea and cocoa at ridiculous prices. We were, of course, happy to pay.

Yeah!! Made it to Base Camp! It was truly an epic moment.

Look at those unsuspecting fools in the cart. Little do they know how ridiculous the trip is. We bounced so hard on those benches I thought I would break every bone in my butt!

We also got to see some expedition tents at Base Camp. I thought it was nutty to stay at 5000 meters but that's chump change compared to the people climbing Everest. Those people are TRULY CRAZY. The top of Mount Everest reaches an unbelievable 8848 meters (29,029 feet) and thousands of people attempt it every year. The climb takes a couple of months in order to acclimatize and the climbers spend their going back and forth between camps before attacking the peak. I can't even imagine what its like up there. The altitude was so painful at Base Camp and that was only 5000 meters! The air at the top of Everest is so thin that if someone was just dropped off at the top, his head would explode in minutes. Also, 1 in 10 climbers don't make it. Not as in having to come back but as in they DIE. Its something that seems exciting in theory but I would never do it. I don't think I'll ever go back to 5000! (Well, maybe. Kilimangaro is definitely on my list...)

Look! Its the crazy people! The expedition tents from Base Camp weren't that impressive but apparently climbing from the Nepal side is more popular.

It was quite a relief to come back down to 4,200 meters but we were definitely sad to go. We were right there! In the face of Everest! This is what legends are made of!

At our last dinner, we went to this place where we could commemorate our trip to Base Camp (held by Puskar). Congrats on making it, everyone!