Saturday, February 11, 2006

Tranquila in the altiplano

Right now I am back in Argentina, in a small pueblo called Humahuaca in the Northwest. I will be visiting a couple of small pueblos out here, which are small, idyllic and beautiful, before heading to Buenos Aires in a week. I have to say that its really nice to be back in Argentina! Its just psychological but I really love this country. So beautiful, varied, cheap and modern with a wonderful culture.

But my last few days in Bolivia were unbelievable. Bolivia is a relatively small country in South America and also one of its poorest but the landscape changes so quickly in breathtaking ways. I spent time in Copacabana, a hippy lakefront town, La Paz, a hectic capital city nestled high up in the mountains, Rurrenabaque in the Amazon Basin and now the Southwest altiplano. I just finished a 4-day trip through the salt plains, high altitude lagunas and rock formations that seem to come right now of an old-fashioned American western movie. The tour started in Uyuni and since I was heading to Argentina afterwards, I decided to take the tour that would drop me off in Tupiza near the Argentina border. It was more expensive than the roundtrip tours but it was totally worth it. Despite spending 6 or 7 hours a day in a very rickety, bumpy jeep, the trip has been the most incredible thing I've seen so far in round dos.

We started in Uyuni to visit the salt flats. Its the middle of the rain season but it actually worked out better at least for the salt flat. The entire thing, which is literally a flat plain of salt that produces over 20,000 tons of salt a year, is covered with water and reflects the sky above perfectly. Its so eerie and beautiful at the same time to see the blue sky and clouds under your feet.

The salt plains provide all the salt in South American and for many parts of the world. Bolivians come actually shovel the salt from the plains for processing.

We were lucky that we came during the rain season. The salt flats are covered with water so you get the perfect reflection of the sky. The horizon line almost completely disappears.

Me on the salt flats! These photos don't even do justice to how amazing it was.

Without the horizon line, everything loses perspective. Kind of lame I know but its also kind of funny.

Enjoying our delicious lunch! They provide the most amazing meals, which is even more unbelievable since the food was cooked and served from our jeep.

We also saw many multi-colored lagunas, which were beautiful in their own rights but what made them extraordinary was the number of flamingos in them. We're talking 13,000 feet and 40 degree weather and yet here they were with their beaks in the water and skinny legs sticking out. The landscape around the lagunas was also incredible. I felt like I was on the moon! I've never seen anything like it before.

Me, Matias and Mariela at the Laguna Verde. The colors come from the mineral deposits in the water.

Flamingos at the Laguna Colorada! What? Flamingos?? We're in 50 degree weather and over 13,000 feet and yet here they are. They eat the micro-organisms in the water (not fish as I originally thought).

We also visited some geysers. We went through some weird landscapes on the trip - it really boggles the mind.

Another beautiful laguna, this time at 6am. All this in just a couple of days!!

By the 3rd and 4th day, we found ourselves in landscapes that reminded me of the Southwest in the US. Incredible considering the location and the altitude! We were up to over 15,000 feet! That's even more incredible considering that is about the same height as Mt. Whitney, the highest point in the lower 48. I took so many photos but they really don't do justice to the views we had. All I could do was stare outside the window in awe for 4 days.

We passed through many very small, very poor little pueblos along the way. The houses are made of adobe, nothing is paved and work comes primarily from mining (in very horrifying conditions).

Dusty deserts at incredible altitudes.

We also passed many interesting rock formations. I swear I've seen rocks like this before...

Straight out of a western. Actually, this is near San Vicente, the alleged location of Butch Cassidy's and the Sundance Kid's last stance.

More incredible rock formations in that small valley. Really, all this in just 4 days of driving.

I also have to really hand it to our guide, Freddy. We started as a 6-person group but 3 people dropped out at the very last minute because one in their party was sick. It was very very fortunate for me and the 2 Argentinos in the group because we had the car to ourselves. The jeep was big but it would have been very crowded with 6! Anyway, since our group was so small, we lost our cook and our driver, Freddy, suddenly found himself as guide, driver AND cook. He always had a smile on his face and despite our worries over the car that literally felt apart in our hands and numerous flat tires, would always reply, "Tranquila, amiga! Tranquila!" So that was what I was even when our jeep brokedown or got stuck. Definitely an adventure!

Tranquila, amiga! Yeah, we're stuck in the road but its all okay! The roads were the worst I've every seen. I was amazed the jeep even got through some of the roads.

Fearless Freddy and his batmobile.

Also, another good thing came out of the salar trip. It turned out the 2 Argentinos, Matias and Mariela, were also heading into Argentina and spending sometime in the Northwest so we decided to travel together for the next week. They are really the nicest and coolest Argentinos around so its been great. Not to mention that how convenient it is to travel with natives :). They have everything in hand and it also gives me a chance to practice my Spanish. And so far its been smooth sailing and very relaxing in Argentina. Perfect end to my travels before heading into the hustle and bustle of Buenos Aires. I also want to thank Thomas, the nicest German-speaking Italian around, for his great company in Uyuni. My trip to Uyuni included almost 24-hours in various buses with NO bathroom breaks except when the buses arrived at their destinations and would have been pretty unbearable had I not met him on the bus. Bolivia buses plus the rain season isn't the best combo ever, let me just tell you. Anyway, we did enjoy some good old-fashioned American pizza in Uyuni in a place called Minuteman Pizza. A badly needed taste of home!

Me and Thomas in Uyuni beforea heading out on our respective trips.

Yes, yet another long post but this trip was by far the best thing I've done so far. I would seriously recommend it anyone who visits South America. Bolivia isn't the easiest country to travel through but this makes everything worth it. Right now, I'm just chilling out in Argentina. I'll eventually make my way to Salta by Wednesday and in Buenos Aires on Saturday (its a 22-hour bus ride from Salta to BA if you can imagine sitting in one place for that long!). Until then!

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